In Italy it was recently the season of the olive harvest and the start of many an olive's transformation into olive oil, or "liquid gold" as described by Homer.
One of the food experiences my wife and I most enjoy is to simply take pieces of crusty paisano bread and use it to wipe up a combination of delicious extra-virgin olive oil mixed with freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. Ever since our time in Italy, olive oil has been of near daily use in our kitchen, whether at the heart of a pasta sauce, mixed with tomatoes, garlic and basil for a toasty and tasty bruschetta or joined with a dark, sweet and spicy balsamic vinegar over a simple green salad. One thing we've learned during that time is that one olive oil is definitely not the same as another, with individual varieties with tastes as nuanced as wine. And not only is it delicious, but it is healthy as well, with links to cardiovascular health. Olive oil tasting is the subject of a recent story on NPR by Italy-based Sylvia Poggioli. And Chef Mario Batali explains the mysteries of olive oil production in this story from NPR's All things Considered.
Olive oil dates back to at least the
10th century B.C, making it one of the planet's oldest known foods. In fact, the word "oil" is derived from the same root
as "olive." Olive oil comes from the fruit of the emblematic olive trees with the silver green leaves, a branch of which held by a dove is now the universal symbol of peace. I won't attempt to provide a comprehensive overview of olive oil or of the processing details here, mainly because the folks over at Life in Italy have already done a nice job. It is worth saying, however, that virgin olive oil must not contain more than 2% oleic acid while the extra virgin olive oil classification requires that it contains not more than .8% acidity. "Ordinary" or "pure" virgin olive oil contains not more than 3.3% acidity.
Olives are grown throughout the Mediterranean region, and even in California, but arguably the best known sources are Greece and Italy. We are clearly biased to those of the Italian variety, particularly of the Ligurian region. The oils from this region come from the Taggiasca and Opalino varieties of olives and their oils tend to be sweet and light, which makes them an excellent accompaniment with seafood. One Ligurian oil we particularly like is Olio Carli DOP Extra Virgin Olive Oil, which is made in relatively small quantities as the olives are hand-selected and hand-pressed. ln Europe, the DOP designation stands for Denomination of Protected Origin.
Only certain food products with historical significance are given DOP
status, which is controlled by government agencies. Once a DOP is
created for a specific food, the various manufacturers must then
complete a lengthy process to certify their production. For a product
to get certified, it must be produced in a specific geographic region
using accepted techniques. Only then can their label bear the DOP
designation. DOP olive oil from Liguria must be made only from the Taggiasca olive, an olive native to this part of Italy. A smaller olive with tremendous flavor, the Taggiasca
has hints of almond and a very fresh quality.
To help you enjoy this oil, there are a number of books and cookbooks focused solely on olive oil and its use in recipes.
First there is DK's Olive Oil Eyewitness Companion which provides an illustrated guide to the world's olive oil and
olive products, along
with locator maps, information about each olive-growing area, vintage
guides, and tasting notes. Also there is The Passionate Olive: 101 Things to Do with Olive Oil, which along with olive legends and history, provides myriad practical uses of olive oil such as restoring luster to your pearls, silencing squeaky doors hinges and soothing your sore throat and dry lips.
There are several olive oil-centric cookbooks that are also worth trying including Olive Oil - From Tree to Table, The Olive Harvest Cookbook: Olive Oil Lore and Recipes from McEvoy Ranch, The Flavors of Olive Oil: A Tasting Guide and Cookbook and Olive Oil: Fresh Recipes from Leading Chefs, among many others.
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